Glue Guide – Use the Right Glue for the Job

October 1, 2016Allison Murray
Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

It’s 2016 and it has been some time since this post first went live on 2/8/13. A lot has changed. I’ve got more experience crafting with glues, often daily. Some formulas have changed and are more or less effective than they were a while back ago. New products have come to the market that are even better than what I was using years ago. The basis of it is still the same. Fabric glues still work like fabric glues and hot glue like hot glue :) But today I’m going to delve a bit deeper into this glue guide ensuring you use the right glue for the job. 

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

If you ask somebody who isn’t crafty how many types of glues there are they will probably give you a pretty low number. When I asked around the number was normally around 5. If only they knew. A trip down the adhesives aisle at a craft store will set them straight.

In fact, looking at all of those glues can be pretty darn daunting. Plus they can be expensive and they can dry up before you have the opportunity to use it all up. So what do you do when you don’t know what kind of glue you need?

In the past when trying to locate what will work and what dries clear and what is permanent I got frustrated. That wondrous adhesive aisle can be pretty infuriating when you’re reading 10 different tubes and bottles and still not finding what you need. My searches often went online where I felt as though I got the runaround. Plus, a decent comprehensive reference couldn’t be found – and if I did find one the link would be broken.

I’ve made the following chart that I use as a quick reference and I’d like to share it with you. Just click on the image below to open the PDF file that will print nice and clearly for you. Keep it at your desk, toss one in your glue box… I spent lots of time online searching different resources and compiling what I found and trying to make it easily accessible. Most of the time I kept it generic, but sometimes I have gone brand specific. Download your glue guide by clicking the text link to the left or the image below.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

(want the old chart? Get it here)

If you still aren’t sure which glue to use, it’s often best to err on the side of caution as clean up from a fouled attempt can be time consuming, never mind that it can completely ruin your project. If you want quick guide for knowing how to glue one thing to another, you absolutely must check out This to That. Fill in the fields to attach (this) to (that) and accurate advice will magically appear!


Tacky GlueGlue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart – As you can tell, Aleene’s is my brand of choice. While it may seem overkill to have so many, the different types can have different attributes and applications. Similarities – all tacky glue is considered to be permanent, dry clear and acceptable for general use, paper. All but the clear are also acceptable for use on styrofoam, wood, ceramics and fabric.

Original Tacky GlueGlue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart – A nice, thick glue perfect for every day use.

Clear Gel Tacky GlueGlue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart – You know how sometimes glue that is supposed to dry clear is kind of milky? This is great for when that is just not an option.

Quick Dry Tacky GlueGlue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart – Sometimes you don’t have all day to wait for something to dry. I typically like a bit of wiggle room with dry time so I can finesse my projects as I work. But when I need something done quickly due to turnaround time I always go for the quick dry formula.

Fast Grab Tacky GlueGlue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart – When working with little things that try to get away from you, like beads, this stuff is a godsend. It’s also great when working with something that is difficult to hold on to. For instance, you’re trying to glue these two angles together but it’s hard to hold it in place just so while the glue dries. This stuff instantly grabs and takes hold so you don’t have to while it dries.

Tacky Glue Samplers – Not sure which Tacky Glue is your favorite? There are handy tacky sampler packs where you can try out my fave formulas available.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

School GlueGlue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart – This is excellent to have around if you have kids that like to craft because it’s non-toxic and easy to clean up and can be used generally, on paper, styrofoam, wood, ceramics.

I always buy Elmer’s brand simply because I am familiar with the results and it is inexpensive, however there are store brands that can be cheaper. Another application is to make creepy skin clones of your hands circa grade school times.

Glue SticksGlue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart – These are great in my book because kids can’t make as big of a mess as they can with liquid glue. They dry clear, most are acid free and all are acceptable for paper crafting.

When crafting with children, or when I don’t need a super amazing bond I always use Elmer’s Disappearing Purple Glue sticks. When I need a stronger bond but a stick is just much easier to manipulate for the project I lean toward Aleene’s Tacky Glue Sticks.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Hot glue gun – An honest to goodness multipurpose glue that is permanent and acceptable for general use on paper, styrofoam, wood, ceramics, fabric and natural items. Due to its nature it is necessary to take caution when working with hot glue as the glue and the metal bits on the gun it can cause nasty burns.

Both a pro and a con, this glue quickly adheres as it cools down requiring quick work.It can yellow or become brittle with time. Glue guns can be found to be corded or cordless, high temperature, low temperature or a combination of the two (with a switch). There are full size (larger) and mini size, which I prefer and own.

Hot glue sticks – Sticks come in high temperature or low and multiple sizes- be sure to purchase the right temperature and size for you gun. Additionally the sticks come in regular length and extended length. Once you buy the longer sticks you’ll never go back.

Specialty hot glue sticks – You can also find neon, glitterbasic colors, individually packaged colors, hot glue sticks. There are even vanilla, pumpkin pie and Christmas tree/pine SCENTED glue sticks. What?

Silicone craft mat – If you drip and drool hot glue all over a silicone craft mat will help keep your mess contained. Hot glue, once dried, will easily peel away from the mat making things so much easier than getting a paint scraper off of your wood desktop! I personally own the Plaid Mod Podge version (because it’s PINK!) and when I manage to find it to actually use it I’m always very pleased with it.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Step aside glue stick, sometimes other adhesives are necessary when working with paper.

Repositionable Tacky Spray – Sometimes you want to stick paper

Elmer’s Craft Bond Spray Adhesive – This is currently my favorite spray adhesive. It’s perfect for smoothly applying paper (and even fabric) onto paper, cardboard and si

Rubber Cement – Intended for primarily paper crafting and can be used for temporary or permanent adhesion, this glue is acid free. There are three methods when using rubber cement: wet mount, dry mount and combination mount that should be outlined Best-Test Rubber Cement.

Aleene’s Paper Glaze– This adhesive is for paper crafting and is common in scrap-booking. While more expensive than traditional glues, it contains no acid and will never yellow with age making it perfect for keepsakes. When applied in thin coats it can be used to laminate images and will dry clear.


Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Sometimes you need an industrial strength glue for the job, especially when you need a very strong bond. These are my go to glues. Take care as these glues must be always used in a properly ventilated area.

E-6000 – Whenever I say “strong glue” in a DIY I often follow it with “like e-6000”. Industrial strength, it is suggested for general use, wood, ceramics, fabric, metal and natural materials and it dries clear. To use apply a small amount and allow to sit until it becomes tacky. Then press the two items together. If you try to use immediately, your top bit will slide around like crazy.

Gorilla Super Glue Brush & Nozzle – Super glue always comes in handy but this particular glue is my favorite because it offers 2 different methods of applying the adhesive in a single bottle. It dries practically within seconds so you can work quickly and works very well on metal and, in general, works on plastic, fabric, stone, ceramic, paper, rubber and more. Where I used to keep many tubes of dollar store super glue, I now only keep 2 of these (one junk drawer, one craft room) because I don’t have to worry about the lid gluing shut.

Aleene’s The Ultimate – Newer to the market this industrial strength glue that works well on metal, wood, stone and ceramic. Though it is quite similar to the E-600 where The Ultimate stands out for me is that works very well on glass.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Sometimes you need a very strong specialty glue. Here are the four I find myself using from time to time.

DAP Weldwood Contact Cement – Think of contact cement like rubber cement on steroids. When adhering wood panels and flat metal to just about anything I bust out the contact cement. It dries tan and is extremely flammable with terrible vapors so use with very, very good ventilation. You apply cement to your two pieces to be put together, for instance when gluing two cuts of wood together to make it a larger piece, and allow it to dry according to the package directions. Once placed together that sucker is STUCK and bonded like nothing you’ve ever seen before. Contact cement is sold in large quantities for use on things like attaching vinyl flooring to subfloor. Yep, this stuff is strong enough you can literally walk all over it.

Gorilla 2 Part Epoxy – This adhesive is so strong you can not only use it for household/craft use but also on automotive repairs. Dang! This clear epoxy cures in only 5 minutes and fills gaps meaning it can easily be used on uneven surfaces. It’s water resistant, solvent resistant and non-toxic once cured. You can use Gorilla epoxy on steel, aluminum, glass, wood, ceramic, tile and most plastics.

Liquid Nails Mirror Adhesive – After having a mirror fall off of a craft project and break once it hit the floor in the middle of the night I’ve found myself always using Liquid Nails Mirror Adhesive since. Flat out, it’s made for mirrors, has amazingly crazy strong hold an works even when a mirror is hung on the wall with gravity and all of that. I’ve NEVER had a mirror come off when using this glue.

J.B. Weld – This is one of my dad’s go to glues. Unlike most glues that are still kind of soft when dry, epoxy creates a hard protective shell that can help protect if from the elements, including humidity. JB Weld is specific type of epoxy that can withstand very high temperatures. It worked very well for us when my dad and I sealed up the screws on my security door that meant somebody could have easily removed it from the frame and, therefore not be quite so secure. This particular epoxy does not dry clear, but rather a dark gray.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Fabric Stiffener
– While not technically a glue I feel that it fits into this category. Intended only for fabric, this product does exactly what it says it will. Either watered down, or applied straight from the bottle, this turns flimsy fabric, lace, felt and the like into a rigid piece. The more watered down the glue, the less stiff the form will be. The application requires dipping the fabric into the mixture or brushing on and wringing out the excess. To prevent waste, I wring the extra into a mason jar to be reused again and again.

Felt Glue
– While a specialty glue that only works for felt may seem like a silly expenditure, if you use felt often it comes in very handy. Use in place of sewing felt together, or to tack down items that are difficult to hold in place when sewing. The downside is that it dries very, very hard so take care not to use anywhere you need to actually stitch.

Fabric glue
– There are tons of fabric glues out there and I typically have several on hand.

Cheapie No-Sew Fabric Glue – I purchase mine at Family Dollar for $2 a package. It goes a long way and is easy to use. Only use with projects that will not need to be washed often.

Fray Check of Stop Fraying
– Apply to rough edges of fabric to prevent fraying. Especially great if you don’t have access to a pricey serger.

Fabric Fusion
(by Aleene’s) – Pricey, but dry clean safe.

Flexible Stretchable
(by Aleene’s) – Great when gluing things onto fabric that moves a lot. For instance, great when gluing things onto cheapie winter gloves.

Super Fabric
(by Aleene’s) – This stuff means business and must be used with proper ventilation. I only use this type of glue when working on shoes or other fabric things that have a lot of wear and are often around water, scuffed, etc.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Sometimes you have a very specific need that typical fabric glue just won’t work out for when quilting or looking for a no sew option.

Spray n Bond Fusible Adhesive – This is a new find for me and I’ve found myself using it on multiple occasions. Don’t feel like sewing? Spray the backside of your fabric and allow to dry. Place your wrong sides of the fabric together and hit it with a hot iron and the two pieces will permanently fuse together. It’s like magic. Take care with over-spray as cleaning this business up isn’t much fun.

Basting Spray – I’ve used this on the few occasions I have made rag quilts. This temporary adhesive will keep your fabric pieces together so you can more easily run them through a sewing machine without all of those nasty straight pins to mess with. I’ve found that giving a few days of drying time is necessary to prevent the adhesive from gumming up on the needle of your sewing machine (and wreaking havoc) so keep that in mind when planning your quilting or applique projects.

Stitch Witchery – In my crafty tool kit since high school this fusible bonding web is so easily used, often to hem clothing. Folding the web within your hem you apply a wet rag and a hot cloth to steam the material until it permanently fuses together. I’ve used this to hem up many pairs of pants and I cannot recall ever having a hem come out even with regular washing. And when it comes to clothes I’m like a man… I have those shirts that friends and family WISH I would throw away but it just isn’t happening :)

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Jewelry making requires special glue. You need something that works well with metal and often glass and is industrial strength. When items are worn they are more likely to get banged up than, say, something you make to rest on a tabletop. I’ve got 3 different glues that I always have in my beading stash.

E-6000 – This glue appears twice in this list and for good reason. This industrial strength glue has long been the standard used by crafters and jewelry makers because it’s strong and works well on metal.

Aleene’s Glass & Bead Adhesive – When working with jewelry a permanent bond is a must and this glue works incredibly well on glass and other slick surfaces, a rare thing, indeed.  It’s got a fab,thick consistency that dries clear, is water resistant and is paintable. It is suggested for use on glass, beads, mirrors, ceramics, hard plastic and jewelry items.

Aleene’s Jewelry & Metal Glue – This glue is in the super glue family and dries so quickly you have to be very careful! If you don’t want to hang around holding one thing to another waiting for the glue to set this is the perfect go to jewelry glue for you. It works on beads, glass, metal, semiprecious stones, mirrors. It also works on just about any cord you’ll get your hands onto including wire, leather and rubber. It also comes in nifty dry adhesive dots which I haven’t had the opportunity to test out, yet. It mostly dries clear but can leave a flakey white residue if allowed to pool up.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Mod Podge – Though there are other brands out there I always find myself grabbing the Plaid brand Mod Podge when I’ve got decoupage on my mind. Not just a glue this waterbase product is also a sealer and a protective finish (though not water-safe). The most commonly used Mod Podge matte and Mod Podge gloss formulas are easily found in gigantic sizes if you’re a constant crafter. If you prefer a satin finish, Plaid has you covered there, too, though you might have to look online or in craft stores to locate Mod Podge Satin.

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

One of the many reasons I love Mod Podge is their commitment to create lots of formulas for just about anything you could require when working with decoupage. In the 3+ years since this guide was originally created there are TONS of variety when it comes to Mod Podge.  Available are: Glow-In-the-Dark, Fabric, Outdoors, Extreme Glitter, Shimmer, SparkleAntique, Furniture (in Satin, Matte and Glossy finishes), Hard Coat, PaperDishwasher-Safe and  Super Thick Gloss. Boom. Decoupage up that business any way you please.

For more information head over to the Mod Podge Rocks blog for an explanation for every single Mod Podge formula out there!

Glue Guide by Dream a Little Bigger - always use the right glue - FREE downloadable reference chart

Remember to visit This to That to find an adhesive option not discussed here, or hit me up in the comments and I’ll do my best to help you out!

Comments (261)

  • Brittany B

    February 9, 2013 at 1:33 PM

    I love this! It makes it so easy to understand what goes with what. May I ask that you also consider adding Studio Tack and Sobo to this list? I am a graphic designer and use these all the time in my work and think readers might like knowing even more options for their personal crafts! Both are acid-free and archival quality.

    Also, have you seen the gel glue pens? I recently bought some but haven't tried them yet. I am wondering what the will perform like.

  • Katie

    February 9, 2013 at 2:23 PM

    I find this incredibly helpful, with one exception: super glue. Superglue is made of a chemical called cyanoacrylate. When it comes in contact with cotton, it can spontaneously combust and let out toxic fumes. So while your chart is really great, I'd get rid of the dot in the fabric column for super glue.

  • Felicia

    February 9, 2013 at 2:28 PM

    This is a great article! Thanks!!

  • Vicki_UK

    February 10, 2013 at 11:52 AM

    Thanks. It's clear you've put a lot of time and fun into this guide. Much appreciated *^_^*

  • roma

    February 10, 2013 at 1:52 PM

    Very helpful!!! :) thank you. :)

  • Alice,Pretty Confused

    February 10, 2013 at 3:30 PM

    I'm so overwhelmed by how many types of glue you have here, my collection of a pritt stick, super glue and basic fabric glue seems meagre in comparison. Really useful stuff xo

  • Allison Murray

    February 10, 2013 at 5:07 PM

    Thanks ladies for all of the lovely comments!
    Brittany I have not used any of those but I think I'll have to give them a go! Thanks for the heads up :)
    Katie- You're absolutely right on the super glue – it's also awful with wool and it doesn't work with metal – the sheets have been updated! Thanks for noticing and bringing it to my attention. I never would have caught it!

  • Karen hornsten

    February 12, 2013 at 10:35 AM

    I used to swear by Martha Stewarts glue products when making my origami flowers. Got a little costly, so i was glad to see Aleenes Clear Gel glue on your list. I love it for reliability and durability, all important when I create a large wedding bouquet from paper flowers, which are assembled after foldingmany paper petals. As a gal who works with paper and glue every day, I very much appreciate all your work in putting together a fantastic glue tutorial and chart. Thank you! Karen

  • CAndice Windham

    February 12, 2013 at 2:32 PM

    Thanks for a great tool!
    here are my favorites: Beacon Quick Grip, great for adding bling and embellishments, similar to E6000, but a thinner consistency. I use it on paper, fabric, wood and metal.
    Beacon Zip Dry, great paper adhesive.
    3M Quick Dry Scrapbook Glue (may have the name a little off), doesn't wrinkle your paper
    Best Glue Ever (Scraperfect), used for adhering papers/cardstock. It remains tacky when dry, so it's great for adding things like a dusting of PearlEx over your project.
    Double Stick Tape: anything from Kool-Tac or Sookwang

  • mia

    February 12, 2013 at 3:03 PM

    thank you!!!

  • Allison Murray

    February 12, 2013 at 4:40 PM

    Karen, as you can tell I'm pretty partial to Aleene's myself!
    Great additions, Candace – I'm adding it to the bottom of the post where it will hopefully be better seen!

  • Carmen

    February 12, 2013 at 4:54 PM

    This is a wonderfully handy post! Thanks for doing all the leg work for us. I've linked to you on my FB page, and will also be pinning. Thanks again!

  • Allison Murray

    February 13, 2013 at 7:30 PM

    You are so welcome and your sharing is much appreciated, Carmen :)

  • CeCe

    February 17, 2013 at 12:07 AM

    Great, informative article! Question for Allison– or any readers: I make jewelry pieces using embroidery thread, and have to use a glue to keep some strands together. However, I'm finding that I don't like the odors that come with the fabric glues like Allene's (and hot glue leaves too many bumps in the project). It is my intent to sell my pieces (on Etsy) once I've built my inventory a bit, but I'm afraid that once my customers open their purchases they'll be afronted with the glue odor. So I've resorted to Elmer's.
    Anyone else have the concern I have and how did you combat it? Thanks in advance.

  • Allison Murray

    February 18, 2013 at 12:41 AM

    Hi, CeCe – the problem that I see is that Elmer's isn't permanent. I would be afraid that the jewelry would come apart with time, or if it accidentally got wet, like in the rain. The industrial glues do have an awful, chemical scent but I think that if you gave it time to air out prior to sending you should be fine. If you've had your clothes dry cleaned (where they clean clothes with chemicals rather than water and soap) you may notice a similar smell, but if the clothes are allowed to air out a few days it dissipates. I think that it would be similar with your jewelry crafts!

  • Just Jaime

    February 19, 2013 at 3:56 PM

    So informative! I pinned this for reference later!

    Found you via craftgawker

  • Allison Murray

    February 19, 2013 at 6:29 PM

    Very glad, Jaime! Thanks for the pin (:

  • Abby

    February 28, 2013 at 4:01 PM

    Thanks so much this is a fantastic reference as I'm always doing little projects and just have to experiment with the glue.. just wondering, I didn't see plastic on the list. I am contantly gluing my son's toys or toy parts together – any suggestions?
    Thanks again!

  • Allison Murray

    February 28, 2013 at 4:34 PM

    Abby, for plastic I would really recommend an epoxy (the two part glues). There are some even specifically made for bonding plastics together. If the plastic is more firm than rubbery, you could also use super glue in a pinch, but your longest lasting hold will definitely be the epoxy. Cheers!

  • Kemerley Deus

    August 18, 2013 at 7:53 PM

    I am doing a project in September on canvas. We are having a Neon/80’s family reunion, I am having the kids do a project for the decorations. I want to write something on the front of the canvas relating to the reunion. What glue could I use that would show up on the canvas after they have decorated it. Are do you have any idea’s that would help me. Thanks a lot.

    1. Allison

      August 19, 2013 at 11:36 AM

      They sell glitter glues that might work out well for you. You can also put an Elmer’s glue cap onto a 2 ounce bottle of acrylic craft paint and write on top of your paintings that way. Another option is to write in any glue and then glitter the top of so that it stands out. Most glues dry clear or white so I wouldn’t just go straight up glue, though.

  • Rebecca

    September 22, 2013 at 12:38 AM

    This is fantastic, thanks! I’m always a bit intimidated by all the adhesive options, and since my budget is small, I really don’t want to waste money by buying things that won’t work for my projects.

    1. Allison

      September 22, 2013 at 9:43 AM

      That’s exactly why I worked this up. Because sometimes I get so confused and it’s irritating when you wash a tee shirt to have everything you glued on come off. I actually use the guide myself when I need a reminder. So glad it’s helpful to you!

  • Chris

    September 27, 2013 at 4:38 PM

    Allison, you’re amazing. Thanks for this info.

    I’m still struggling though. I’m doing the first crafts I’ve ever done in my life right now, and I’m having a hard time. I wonder if you could offer some insight?

    It’s all fabric work. I’m not going to sew anything. I’m trying to make a tree skirt, table runner, and stockings for Christmas decor. It’s a lot of felt, some burlap, and some embellishments. The embellishments include lots of sequin appliques and patches, more felt and burlap, and some little crystals and plastic cabochons.

    I bought the Aileens fabric fusion glue and it’s not working with the burlap at all. It worked very poorly with appliques on felt. The backs of the appliques and patches are a little shiny-smooth. Next I tried old fashioned elmers white craft all purpose glue. It’s working ok with the felt until I hold up the stocking, then the heavy sequence appliques fall off. It’s also not working with the burlap at all. (I’m new at this, is burlap not considered a fabric in the crafting world?) I looked at This to That, it doesn’t have felt, appliques/patches or burlap specific info, just “fabric” and suggests 2 glues I hadn’t heard of. I’m wondering if the appliques aren’t considered fabric, and if not what are they considered?

    Any advice you could give me I’d really appreciate.
    Thanks for all you do,

    1. Allison

      September 27, 2013 at 9:44 PM

      Hey, Chris – I’d really recommend working with a heavy duty fabric glue like Aleene’s super fabric. You’ll need to use it with proper ventilation but it is one of the more serious glues you’re going to find when working with all kinds of fabric. If you have a hard time with the burlap still I’d probably try E-6000 next. Those are both my “go to glues” when dealing with fabrics and “heavy things”.

      I know how frustrating it can be to get everything glued on and then have it all fall right off. Give one or both a go and let me know how it works for you, but just glue a few and be sure to let your project sit flat for a good while so that the glue holds, especially if your items are heavier than the fabric is. I’d probably go overnight. When you know what works best for that particular project or items to glue on, you can go nuts!

      Thanks so much for your kind words, best of luck and be sure to let me know how it pans out :)

  • Chris

    October 2, 2013 at 12:07 PM

    Thanks so much! I ordered the E-6000 over the weekend. ‘Should be here late this week. I’ll comment again once I’ve used it. I really appreciate the recommendation, and the inspiration.

    1. Allison

      October 3, 2013 at 10:33 AM

      Oh, yay! E-6000 is my go to glue so often. I hope it works out for you!

  • Dri

    October 20, 2013 at 9:19 PM

    This was very helpful when looking for fabric glue to make my Halloween costume. I purchased the Aleene’s Fabric Fusion to make my dress and I must say it is not working at all. It will not stick and the fabric that I am using is just a bed sheet. Do you have any suggestions on what I should do? I was thinking about using my glue gun but wasn’t sure how it would turn out with the dress.

    Any help would be appreciated,

    1. Allison

      October 21, 2013 at 11:08 AM

      Hey, Dri – so sorry that you’re having some problems. I just read a handful of recent reviews on Amazon and a lot of people are having a hard time with it.. Something must have changed in the formula and I’m sorry again.

      When working with cotton I find that cheapie, cheapie fabric glue works really, really well. My favorite I actually buy at Family Dollar a little discount store and it comes in a white tube with blue writing. It runs either a buck or two per tube. Otherwise you might even take your project in to a craft or fabric store and see which glue they’d suggest. Are you gluing the entire dress from scratch – totally no sew?

  • Cate

    November 16, 2013 at 2:05 PM

    Alison , my gratitidute fro your tutorial on glue and there abilities. I am just starting to use dried pressed flowers. You mention using a type of glue in above list that though suitable may dry yellow. Can you suggest a glue for pressed flowers. What a great gift you’ve provided for those of us newbies and seasoned professionals. Blessings Cate

    1. Allison

      November 17, 2013 at 2:30 PM

      To be honest I’d think that plain old Elmer’s school glue might be the best option for dried flowers. If you give it a go will you let me know how it works out for you?

  • Chris

    December 3, 2013 at 3:27 AM

    Hi Allison,

    It’s me again, Chris with the sequence appliques. I wanted to let you know how it all worked out.

    The E-6000 did it. I was able to glue everything with it. The burlap took a lot of it, but it worked on that too. The appliques all worked just fine. Everything I used it on – including an old porcelain music box I had broken – turned out successfully. You rule!

    By the way, I read a review as I was buying the E-6000 that advised getting the little tubes if you’re not used to working with glues. I wanted to pass that along here because I found it to be good advise. For me as a total newbie the larger tube became a mess in no time. I couldn’t control how much came out, it got on everything, and I wound up wasting a lot. The little ones were easier to manage.

    I read your comment above regarding Aleene’s Fabric Fusion. Yeah, it didn’t work for me at all either. That’s a shame if there’s a product change that’s ruined it. Oh well, I’m just so glad you turned me on to the E-6000. Thank you so much!

    Merry Christmas!

    1. Allison

      December 3, 2013 at 7:53 AM

      That is a great tip about the little tubes. It seems the glue just keeps coming out of the big ones even when you’re not using any pressure anymore. Very glad you were able to make a glue work for you :)

  • Kathy

    December 17, 2013 at 11:34 PM

    Thank you for your great glue chart…I will add this to my “did you know” file that I print and share with friends. I’m currently making lapel flowers and having a problem getting the fabric (cotton) to adhere to the metal pin back. I’ve tried e-6000, fabric glue and hot glue. None of these glues are strong enough to hold together when trying to pin the flower on clothing. The “this to that” shows 3m 77, but it is a spray. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    1. Allison

      December 18, 2013 at 8:57 AM

      Honestly, I’d go ahead and give clear tacky glue a try. You’ll have to hold it some time as it dries but it should work. If not I’m finding that Gorilla glue is bonding just about everything to anything!

  • Geraldine

    May 26, 2014 at 6:14 PM

    To prevent the glue stick from drying, keep it in the freezer. It’ll stay moist and be ready to use next time you need it. I’ve kept a stick in the freezer for over a year, it shrunk somewhat, but it’s still sticky.

  • dustyj

    June 4, 2014 at 7:01 PM

    this is a great article! I’ve also used sites like
    when gluing fabric to other stuff. You just plug in two materials and it tells you what glue to use!

  • Judee

    July 25, 2014 at 11:43 AM

    I need to know what glue to use to glue a decorated letter onto a foam canvas, which is covered with fabric. This project is for a little girls room. I didn’t see this particular thing on the blog. Thank you so much.

    1. Allison Murray

      July 25, 2014 at 3:18 PM

      What is on the backside of the letter?

  • Wanda

    September 4, 2014 at 12:19 PM

    Great tutorial! I am sure you have saved a lot of people a lot of grief in choosing the correct glue! However, you indicated on your chart that E6000 is not washable. Not sure exactly what you mean by that heading, but if you are saying it will not hold up to getting wet that isn’t quite correct. I think you must be referring to the removal of the glue though. Anyway, I am posting this quote below from the FAQs about E6000 in case anyone is confused:

    “Is E6000 washer/dryer safe?
    Yes. E6000 will hold on substrates applied to fabrics that are put through the washer and dryer. Dry cleaning, however, is not recommended as dry cleaning solvents break down cured adhesive.”

    1. Allison Murray

      September 7, 2014 at 4:54 PM

      That is good to know, Wanda! Thanks much for taking the time to comment about this. I truly didn’t know it was washable! :)

    2. belinda

      April 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM

      i really really hate aleenes jewelry glue. Either the top becomes nonremovable or it shoots glue up into the air. Right now i am sitting here worried that it is in my damn eyes.

      1. Allison Murray

        April 14, 2015 at 6:32 PM

        Eek! That doesn’t sound great at all! I’ve started having issues with the lid and that does stink. e6000 makes a jewelry glue now and it’s a lot easier to handle and it doesn’t dry so quickly so you won’t be gluing yourself to your projects and losing bits of your fingerprints!

  • Kari Clement

    September 19, 2014 at 12:54 AM

    Hi ,I am wanting to decorate older leather handbags with coins, old buttons, beads etc. What kind of glue would I use that would not come loose in time? Thank you, Kari

    1. Allison Murray

      September 19, 2014 at 11:32 AM

      E6000 should work wonders for you. It will glue just about anything onto leather!

  • Maureen

    September 19, 2014 at 12:59 PM

    This Guide for Glue is wonderful! Thank you for your work on the tutorial! I would like to copy & paste the guide in my iPad Evernote, but I can’t! One is I can’t get past your ad for Marie Callenda’s food, there’s NO X to do so. And is there a way you can have on your site a type of “CleanPrint” so it’s easy to copy for someone.

    Love to get your posts and I hope you’ll be able Help in these areas.

    1. Allison Murray

      September 19, 2014 at 3:45 PM

      Hi, Maureen. I’ll look into the clean print option and I’m sorry that the ad was intrusive for you. Hopefully a PDF will work? It would appear the link in the post was broken (now fixed). But here is a direct link to the PDF to download: just to make things easier. I’m so glad you enjoy the blog and appreciate your reading!

  • betty w

    September 19, 2014 at 4:57 PM


    Besides the Felt Glue, what glue do you recommend that I use? I’m making a super hero eye mask for my daughter using felt since it’s stiffer. But, it’s not so soft on the face. I wanted to glue another piece of fabric to the felt so that it’s a softer material rubbing against my daughter’s face. What kind of glue do you recommend for that? (I wasn’t planning to sew, only glue the mask together.) Thanks much! And thank you for this post…truly helpful.

    1. Allison Murray

      September 19, 2014 at 9:29 PM

      You could use a thicker fabric glue. Aleene brand has a Super Fabric that means business and dried nice and soft and pliable. You have to use it with proper ventilation but it is what I would use instead of felt glue (which can dry stiff and kind of scratchy).

  • Sean Carrigan

    September 23, 2014 at 3:06 PM

    I am looking to glue burlap to inexpensive plastic masks to make “scarecrow” masks as a Halloween project with a youth group. I do not want the burlap to become shiny and lose the rough, texture look/feel, but I want the burlap to adhere to the curves of the underlying plastic mask. Your thoughts please?

    1. Allison Murray

      September 24, 2014 at 9:58 AM

      Hey, Sean. I’d actually recommend Aleene’s Super Fabric. Now this stuff is noxious and needs to be used in a well ventilated area.

      I’d first brush the glue onto the mask, set the burlap on top and give it a push to make sure it sticks to the curves and bends and LEAVE IT to dry completely. You can come back and trim up the extra burlap with scissors or an X-acto knife. The less you manipulate them, the less likely it is that you’ll get the glue on the front side of the masks. Some might come through the burlap (since the weave is so loose) but I’d just leave it alone to dry because smearing it will make that whole area it touches a bit glossy.

      That’s my two cents. Let me know how it works?

  • cathy ondick

    September 23, 2014 at 11:18 PM

    I bought an outdoor secoration made of several glass bowls/plates glued to a hocket puck and stuck into the ground on a piece of rebar. I have used many glues but they don’t hold up in the sun and heat. Any suggestions? E6000 and sticky ass glue are among the ones I have tried. Thanks for any help you can give me. Cathy

    1. Allison Murray

      September 24, 2014 at 9:47 AM

      Have you tried silicone sealant (like from a caulking tube in the hardware section)? Silicone is used around windows which get pretty darn hot. I’ve recently been shown that it can work as an adhesive here:

    2. Allison Murray

      September 24, 2014 at 11:44 AM

      Ooh – I’m not sure what hocket puck is? BUT I’ve had good luck with glass stuff and Aleene’s Jewelry and Metal Glue. I’ve glued glass bits onto wood and glass and metal and plastic and it’s worked like a dream. It doesn’t have a finished texture or whatever that seems like it would have a problem with the heat, either. I think I’d give it a go first ($3 in the jewelry making section at WalMart!)

  • laura brock

    September 26, 2014 at 2:48 PM

    I want to paste a shop bought mural onto a very large canvas, what glue would you recommend.

    1. Allison Murray

      September 27, 2014 at 2:13 PM

      A decoupage would work well. A really common one is mod podge.

  • marcie

    September 29, 2014 at 10:19 AM

    I see someone already asked about the felt/felt glue. I am curious though if you have a suggestion for a glue that will work on felt to stick pieces in place and then allow you to either hand stitch or sew them.

    1. Allison Murray

      October 1, 2014 at 7:15 PM

      To be honest I use a very small dab of felt glue in the center and away from my stitching. You could try tacky glue or a fabric glue… Let me know if it works for you…

  • Jassica

    October 12, 2014 at 5:12 PM

    Hi! I’m trying to glue plastic buttons on a painted canvas without smearing the paint (all acrylic paints). What would you recommend? I was thinking the E6000 would work the best.

    Thanks for the overview of SO MANY different glues. I’m going to refer back to this often!

    1. Allison Murray

      October 12, 2014 at 6:14 PM

      Hmmm… That can be quite a pickle. To be honest I think my first choice would be hot glue. It will dry so quickly on you that could cause a problem, but I hate the way E6000 can smear about a bit because it doesn’t dry as quickly. It’s serious business glue, too and I am afraid if you have to wipe some away, that it’s just gonna take right on off with your paint, too! Either way, let me know how it goes?

  • Jess

    October 16, 2014 at 12:43 PM

    Love your article, very insightful. I need some help for my DIY Halloween costume. I was planning on being a gumball machine for Halloween and you have to glue gumballs (either real ones or the colorful cotton balls) onto the shirt. I have my heart set on using real gumballs because it looks that much more authentic but I’m concerned about if they will stay on the shirt. The shirt material is 60% rayon, 35% polyester and 5% spandex (figured the type of fabric might make a difference). What kind of glue do you think would work best to stick the gum balls on shirt? I was going to use a glue gun but figured I’d better ask someone with more knowledge on the subject. Thanks!

    1. Allison Murray

      October 16, 2014 at 1:23 PM

      It looks like most of the costumes online that use the real gumballs attach to a bustier or bra. That would definitely hold the weight of the gumballs. To be honest, most home crafters are going to use hot glue because it’s cheap and easily accessible. It dries to be firm and very quickly so you can get this sucker knocked out without crazy dry time. I think it should work well if your shirt is nice and sturdy and you don’t skimp on the glue. If your top is soft or flowy, your gumballs will be too heavy no matter the glue.

  • Sara Price

    October 20, 2014 at 12:05 PM

    I am making my daughter a dog costume for Halloween and I am going to attached black felt circles to a white cotton shirt/pants. I was planning to use hot glue but now I don’t think that’s the best idea. I don’t want it to burn a hole through the fabric or scratch her delicate skin. Any advice on which glue to use since I don’t sew. Thank you so much!

    1. Allison Murray

      October 20, 2014 at 1:27 PM

      I’m all about Aleene’s Quick Dry Fabric Fusion right now. Mostly because it’s so fast to use and it’s not super scratchy!

  • Dalia

    October 21, 2014 at 8:23 PM

    Hi For this Halloween I saw a great quick DIY picture where a girl was wearing a zipper down her face half way open , and it looked like her face was being torn apart. Simple. Right?! But how in the world did they get that zipper to stick to her face? Any glue you recommend ? I’ve seen comments on “Spirit Gum” but they all do mention it works well on lightweight object and laytex.. The zipper has fabric and will be vertically worn on my face, which I’m more than sure the weight of the metal will bring it down… I thought of double sided tape but I don’t think that would help much either… Any suggestion?! Please help! Thank you!

    1. Allison Murray

      October 21, 2014 at 9:54 PM

      Tacky Glue. Good, old fashioned in the gold bottle tacky glue. I’ve seen people make zombie flesh and any manner of things with Tacky Glue so I think it would work out splendidly. Extra bonus, you can find it at Walmart and it’s cheap!

      1. Dalia

        October 22, 2014 at 7:51 AM

        Thank you so much! Will do!

  • ijfke

    October 23, 2014 at 3:29 AM

    Hi Allison! Thanks for this great glue guide. I have a question though: What glue should I use to glue fabric to clear smooth plexiglass? The problem is I’m glueing the good side of the fabric to the plexiglass, so the glue needs to dry completely clear and not be goopy. I tried 3m77 – adheres perfectly but doesnt dry clear – and Aleens fabric glue – dries clear but doesnt stick to the plexiglass. What would you suggest?


    1. Allison Murray

      October 23, 2014 at 9:07 PM

      It seems like the best option might be a permanent spray adhesive (one that doesn’t say repositionable) the spray will have a kind of spittle effect but I think be less noticeable. Another option could be gloss Mod Podge but it might make your fabric look wavy. Let me know how it goes?

  • ijfke

    October 27, 2014 at 1:07 PM

    Thank you so much Allison! Unfortunately the 3M77 i used is a spray adhesive, and it is too spittley. I’ve tried gloss modge podge but it doesnt adhere very well to the plexiglass. I’m somewhat out of adhesive options, so I’m going to try coating the fabric in resin.

  • Amir

    October 27, 2014 at 8:49 PM

    Made a costume that my daughter will be wearing this Friday, and the top part of the dress has felt sewn onto the fabric, on this part of the dress we want to glue real candy. I was wondering what would be best to hold candy and after glueing could we use mod podge to seal it?

    1. Allison Murray

      October 28, 2014 at 4:34 PM

      Hi, Amir. I think I ‘d go with hot glue because it will have the strongest bond to fabric from the candy. Mod Podge might swirl around the colors changing them from, say a red and white peppermint to a pink candy. I’d use a spray polyurethane or acrylic sealer (in the craft section) to seal instead!

  • Rebecca

    November 2, 2014 at 2:58 PM

    What about glue dots? I’ve experimented with using them for kids crafts (no dry to stick time) but I’m curious about suggestions and best use advise for them. Any comments or ideas? Also for fabric and felt , iron on adhesive (like Wonder-under) is my favorite.

    1. Allison Murray

      November 3, 2014 at 3:05 PM

      To be honest I have very little experience with glue dots so I’d go with package directions. I’ll experiment here soon and see what I can learn about them. I also love Wonder-under and it’s great for homemade appliques and whatnot!

  • Bonnie

    November 24, 2014 at 8:20 PM

    Hello I am trying to make a pretty hair clip by gluing fabric onto felt with a metal clip in between. I used Jewel-It Fabric Embellishing Adhesive and the felt seemed to absorb all the glue and the fabric and metal are not really sticking to it. Do you have any glue recommendations for my project?

    1. Allison Murray

      November 25, 2014 at 8:18 AM

      The only way to go really is to stitch the felt to the metal and then glue the fabric to the felt.

  • Jean

    December 6, 2014 at 6:27 AM

    thanks so much for this chart!
    I am trying to glue plastic to plastic (large soda bottles); will E6000 work for this, or should I use an epoxy, eg Gorilla Glue?

    1. Allison Murray

      December 7, 2014 at 8:52 AM

      For plastic to plastic you could use either equally well I’d think. I’d say go with what you already have on hand and see how it turns out, but plastic to plastic shouldn’t be too difficult. Good luck!

  • G-Man

    December 23, 2014 at 12:46 AM

    There is a group of adhesives in the acetone based family.

    Beacon’s 3 and 1 Advanced Craft Glue (75%); $6.95 4 fl oz OR
    ZAP Goo (40%) by Pacer Tech a SuperGlue Corp division under $4 1 oz re-useable tube.
    Both are in a gel, initially flexible / moveable. Work well with metal to plastic/wood/ceramic et al. Thinnable or clean-up w/ acetone;nail polish remover(??).

  • sgoldleaf

    January 13, 2015 at 8:29 PM

    how about gluing fabric (particularly denim) to a rigid cardboard backing? I’ve used Best-test adhesive spray but can’t seem to find it anymore.

    1. Allison Murray

      January 13, 2015 at 10:50 PM

      I have been using Aleene’s Liquid Fusion spray and I love that stuff!! I think it would work brilliantly!!

  • Norma

    February 15, 2015 at 6:43 PM

    Thank you for doing all the leg work! This is super helpful!

    I am walking in a super hero themed 5K dressed as Wonder Woman. I bought a paid of blue boxer shorts for a buck and want to glue some felt stars to them. I’m not real concerned about how it will hold up over time as I will only have about $3 invested in them – I just want to get thru the 5K without leaving a trail of stars behind me. Do you think hot glue would work? I will have something on underneath them.


    1. Allison Murray

      March 15, 2015 at 9:50 AM

      Hot glue would absolutely work for this! Have fun!

  • Yvonne Hellyar

    February 22, 2015 at 1:21 AM

    Thanks for this informative article. I live in South Africa and we cannot get hold of some of these glues. My favorite is definitely Mono Multi (for general paper crafting) and E6000, which is difficult to get here. Whenever I hear of a friend going to the U.S.A I always beg them to bring some E6000 back for me. The problem with Mono Multi is that it does not dry solid but seems to stay tacky. The E6000 sometimes sometimes removes the backing from cheaper “gem” stones

  • Melanie Lewis

    March 5, 2015 at 6:19 PM

    I am hoping to make this craft with a group of kids at the library where I work this fall. I saw some wonderful fall colored pom poms and would love to make this work. Can you tell me which of the safe/easy to use/quick drying glue options you would recommend for this project to be a success? Glue guns are not an option for our library crafts.

    Thanks for your help

    1. Allison Murray

      March 5, 2015 at 6:22 PM

      Hey, Melanie – my first thought was to use Aleene’s Quick Grab Tacky Glue. It takes a hold of stuff right away so there is no sitting and holding something for minutes for it to catch before moving on. It’s pretty awesome stuff and will wash right off of kiddos hands.

  • Helen

    March 7, 2015 at 9:27 PM

    I am interested in trying some Pebble Art. What type of glue would you use to glue pebbles to a mat (paper) type backing for framing, to wood or to another rock.

    1. Allison Murray

      March 15, 2015 at 9:44 AM

      I’d go with e6000, Helen. It’s a great industrial strength glue that should hold those pebbles on like nobody’s business!

  • Ivette mosso

    March 9, 2015 at 10:27 PM

    hello thank you for the amazing tips. I want tI do this easter bunny crafts for a charity event but am having a hard time figuring out what to use. I need to glue pom poms onto a lollipop and plastic eye balls onto a wood bead as well. I can’t use a hot glue gun because it’s with kids and at a park. Any suggestions thank you

    1. Allison Murray

      March 9, 2015 at 11:17 PM

      I would use Aleene’s Quick Grab Tacky Glue. Basically anything that you would use a hot glue gun for but can’t I bust out that quick grab!!

  • Fran

    March 14, 2015 at 1:02 PM

    I know your post is old, but I am hoping you will see this and help me. I have made cloth foldover clutches and would like to a round metal filigree medallion to the front. What kind of glue would you use. Thanks for your help.

    1. Allison Murray

      March 15, 2015 at 9:17 AM

      My first try would be e6000. Definitely try a sample with a piece of scrap cloth, but I think it will work best for you in the end!

  • Kimberly

    March 24, 2015 at 12:18 AM

    Great post! I am hoping you may have a suggestion for me. I mod podged some artwork onto some wood boards, unfortunately on both sides. I attached some D-ring hangers on the back with hot glue and it seemed to work great for about two weeks, then slowly but surely they are all falling off the wall. Can you suggest a better adhesive for matte mod podge?

    1. Allison Murray

      March 24, 2015 at 8:28 AM

      To be honest I think the best way would be with screws. Is that possible? If not, I’d get after it with E6000

      1. Kimberly

        March 24, 2015 at 10:57 AM

        I used peg board because it was economical and it is so thin. I will give the E6000 a shot. Thank you soooo much! I’m sharing your post on Pinterest. :)

  • Melody

    April 24, 2015 at 7:31 AM

    I just bought a gorgeous calf hair bag, but I’m scared of balding. I know it will eventually happen, but is there a spray or liquid glue I can use that won’t make the hair stiff??

    1. Allison Murray

      April 24, 2015 at 10:23 AM

      I don’t think there is anything for calf hair like that. The best bet is probably to rotate the bag often and try no to let it rub against your clothing. In my experience, it always balds somewhere. Sorry!

      1. Melody

        April 24, 2015 at 11:02 AM

        Thank you for the reply. I’m going to return the bag. The price, $1500, is not worth the risk .

        1. Allison Murray

          April 24, 2015 at 12:56 PM

          I don’t blame you one bit!

  • Tara

    May 3, 2015 at 12:47 AM

    Such a helpful tutorial, but of course, I still have a question. I want to glue fairly light 10″ chipboard numbers to a craft-style shadow box (which is also a lighter product with no glass not a durable shadow box). I want to attach two sheets of paper for decoration in between the back of the shadow box (which is a shiny coated chipboard type of material) and the number I will be attaching.

    I was wondering how to best attach the number to the back of the box being that there will be paper in between. I feel like the number along with the glue will pull the paper off as it is just scrapbook paper. Or maybe I should also be asking what type of glue I should be using to attach the paper to paper and the paper to the chipboard back. I have always used little tape runners for scrapbooking, but the one I use is not strong enough though it does leave the paper without any wrinkles.

    These boxes are a gift and I have this fear that down the road the number will detach from the paper or tear the paper off and I would be so embarrassed!


    1. Allison Murray

      May 3, 2015 at 7:41 AM

      To attach the paper I’d use either a really strong spray adhesive. This by Loctite is good and so is this by Aleene’s. If you’ve ever used it you can’t peel the paper off (you have to use a scraper and it’s a total nightmare). Your paper will go nowhere! Then I’d use a really strong glue, like e6000 to attach the letters. Might be overkill but that stuff won’t go anywhere!

  • Darla

    May 3, 2015 at 8:21 AM

    Thank you for posting this! I’m working on an abstract metal sculpture using found objects and needed to know what kind of glue was best. I was using the wrong stuff, can’t wait to try the E6000 adhesive. Very informative, thank you!! :D

  • Jennifer

    June 13, 2015 at 9:10 AM

    Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to create this chart for everyone out here and answer such random questions — you are a true Glue Angel!! I’m sure I will return soon with my own personal questions but really enjoyed reading the Q&As here as they gave me inspiration to get my projects going! I have been so fearful of ruining what little supplies I’m able to buy by using products that make large promises but don’t follow through. I know I’m NOT the ONLY one who more than appreciates ALL that you’ve done in sharing your knowledge and research along with your eagerness to help with questions — May you continually be blessed!!

  • Marie Jefferson

    June 14, 2015 at 5:04 AM

    Great detail as so many different glues out there,it is hard to know which ones to use,so this will help alot when crafting.Thankyou for your time you have spent in writing this.

  • Suzi

    June 24, 2015 at 5:08 PM

    Thanks for this chart! It’s helped me figure out a “ceramic to burlap” for a project. As far as another type of adhesive, Mini Glue Dots” are awesome for gluing tiny objects such as rhinestones to anything. They are super important in my craft room!

  • Erin Borean

    August 17, 2015 at 7:17 PM

    Thank you SO MUCH!!! My husband and I are expanding our projects that we make from wine barrel hoops. He welded two hoops together and 8 connecting pieces, so I have a wreath with a 4″ space to fill. Manzanita is our favorite wood to use. I entertwined new branches to fill the back of the wreath, using wire. Then I hot glued in smaller pieces of aged manzanita and small pinecones. THEN I decided it needed wire ribbon behind the branches! I ended up scotch taping the ribbon to the hoop, as hot glue or adhesive putty wouldn’t work! Thankfully, I used Aleen’s tacky glue and some small binder clips! The wreath is (now) amazing!!!
    You saved me! The next wreath will get the ribbon glued on FIRST!

  • Betty

    November 17, 2015 at 9:37 PM

    Thank you for sharing such useful information! My problem is that I bought a pair of beautiful ballet flats embellished with very tiny rhinestones. I noticed that some of the rhinestone have already fallen off & I haven’t even worn them yet!! Is there a spray glue that dries clear and will not make the rhinestones cloudy?? Ugh. HELP!

    1. Allison Murray

      November 17, 2015 at 10:40 PM

      Most glues will make the stones cloudy or crack. Spray glues can be really messy. There is a special glue by Aleene’s called glitter and gem glue that might work really well for you. Are the shoes fabric or leather though?

  • Missey

    December 12, 2015 at 9:31 PM

    Thank You sooo much!! I love the chart and the very informative glue-ography. I will definitely keep that at arms reach. (Laminating the chart of course). Thank You…You are” The Glue Guru”. Sincerely, “GoRIlLA GLuEd” yep…I am teased often about glueing my fingertips with a thick layer of the evil stuff. :) Missey

    1. Allison Murray

      December 13, 2015 at 9:21 AM

      You’re quite welcome and no worries! I once glued my super glued my finger to the lens of my camera as I was working. It happens! :)

  • Melina

    December 16, 2015 at 11:57 AM

    thank you thank you thank you! please keep up the good work :)

  • Jessica Hofmann

    December 18, 2015 at 4:04 PM

    Hi There! Thank you for posting this! I had a quick question – I am making a recipe box for my sister and need to glue a burlap-ish ribbon to wood. Would to modge podge be appropriate for this? I see they work for both wood and fabric, wasn’t sure if they worked together. Thank you!

    1. Allison Murray

      December 18, 2015 at 5:07 PM

      Since it’s going to be in a kitchen (and probably get a bit dirty from time to time) I might go with a stronger glue. e6000 might be overkill but that burlap will go nowhere! But to answer your question, you can totally choose to go with Mod Podge!

      1. Jessica Hofmann

        December 18, 2015 at 7:05 PM

        Awesome! Thank you very much :)

  • Christina Fay

    December 22, 2015 at 8:33 AM

    Thank you so much for doing all this research for us and sharing all of your “glue” tips. I am very grateful for the chart, it will be right beside my glue in my craft cabinet. I work with jewelry, paper and fabric and anything else I can put my hands on, ha, ha. I use Scott’s Quick Dry Adhesive when making Foto folios and mini albums from cardstock and chipboard, which is fabulous btw; E-6000, especially when working with jewelry; and Mod Podge has been in my craft supplies since I was a kid, believe me that was decades ago. Big Aleene’s fan also and I agree that Elmer’s Carpenter’s WoodGlue glue is the best, I have tried others and always went back to Elmers, I recommend you stay away from Gorilla glue when gluing wood to wood, unless you have hours to go back and mess with it time and time again, otherwise you can ruin a piece of furniture, trust me, I am telling you this from experience and I followed the instructions to the T. It may be a great glue but from my experience, not for that. I’ve used Elmer’s and you can’t even tell it was broken.

    Thanks again, happy crafting and May your holidays be Merry!

  • Christina Fay

    December 22, 2015 at 8:46 AM

    Btw, your site helped me figure out what glue I would use for a mini album today, I want to enforce the binding with fabric rather than Tyvek (very expensive!); I don’t know if it will be successful or not though; however, I am making it for my husband for Christmas to house some old family photos I found while unpacking some boxes from a fairly recent move, so time will tell.

    Thanks again!

  • Heather

    January 11, 2016 at 6:33 AM

    I am in desperate need on the “right” glue…I have a strapless dress that needs to have straps. I bought the dress from a consignment shop so I don’t want to take it to a tailor. I will be using tulle, first I will hand sew the tulle onto a peice of fabric then I’ll glue that fabric to the inside of the dress, it’s silky material. Anyone have any ideas which glue to get. I need it to be reliable, my “girls” need it to be reliable so we don’t flash anyone!!

    1. Allison Murray

      January 11, 2016 at 8:48 AM

      So the straps will actually be needing to support the dress? To be honest I don’t know that I’d really trust any glue with that kind of responsibility… I’m a super big fan of the Aleene’s Fabric Fusion Tape. I actually found this weekend that when I needed to remove the tape I tore up the fabric rather than removing anything so it is super sturdy. I just don’t know if it’s that powerful, or any glue is really. There is always e-6000 and that stuff is crazy strong but if you get anything near the pretty side of the dress you’ll ruin it. And if it sticks out from the straps too much the glue touching your skin might be uncomfortable. Have you used either of those products to say if you feel one or the other might work for you?

  • Claire

    January 26, 2016 at 10:33 PM

    In Australia we have ‘craft glue’ as well as tacky craft glue and PVA. Do you have any idea if all craft glues are tacky glue? All PVA?

    1. Allison Murray

      January 31, 2016 at 10:18 AM

      I believe that PVA is similar to what we call “school glue” here. It’s great for paper and kid’s projects but I don’t know about the longevity in it for crafting. Since I’m not familiar with the difference in Australian glues, I found this link that might be helpful to you!

  • Kirsty

    February 9, 2016 at 9:04 AM

    Thanks for the post – I didn’t know there were so many glues! I came across it while Googling what the best glue to use for gluing glitter to fabric would be, but I can’t seem to find a proper answer anywhere on the internet!

    Would you be able to help me? The glitter would be applied onto a skirt or top made from cotton fabric, and the glue would be need to be spreadable with a brush. I’m not going for big solid patches of glitter, just thin wispy flashes mostly. It would have to be able to hold up to a gentle hand wash on odd occasions too. Is there anything you can advise that would be good enough for the job? Thank you <3

    1. Allison Murray

      February 10, 2016 at 8:33 AM

      Have you looked into fabric glitter paints? That would work really well by the sound of it!

  • Amy

    February 10, 2016 at 4:03 AM

    Paste! I haven’t seen it since Elementary school, yet I can still remember the look and smell of them. *nostalgic*

    Thanks for the great glue guide :)

  • Kim

    March 17, 2016 at 3:49 PM

    Hi I wonder if you can offer an opinion. I’m using crimps on the end of ribbons and just want to add a drop or two of glue to make sure it holds…….

    What is a good one for fabric to metal that doesn’t have a long lasting strong smell like E6000. I used that and the ribbon is certainly not going anywhere, but I think it’s a bit of an overkill, and I’m worried about the smell hanging around too long when they open the packaging.


    1. Allison Murray

      March 17, 2016 at 5:18 PM

      Aleene’s makes a jewelry glue that could be really good. It’s super strong but doesn’t have that smell but you still need to properly ventilate. It just doesn’t strong chemical smell like stepping into the dry cleaners. It will stick to your skin worse than e6000 and since it’s consistency is thinner you will need to be a little extra careful (glued together fingers… so easy to do :)

      1. Kim

        March 17, 2016 at 6:43 PM

        Thanks Allison, I’ll have a look :)

  • Anne

    March 26, 2016 at 10:55 AM

    Thank you for this list. From my experience I totally agree with your choices!! I am making mixed media canvases and using sprays, inks, found objects, shells, and glitter and embossing powders. The biggest problem in having is how to apply the glitter or other powder across a large area that has been sprayed. I can’t use midge podge or anything that has to be brushed on or the ink will smear. Any tips?

    1. Allison Murray

      March 26, 2016 at 5:34 PM

      Have you tried a spray sealer? Mod Podge makes one and so does Aleene’s. There is always polyurethane spray, too. I think if you did several light coats it would be okay. I’d be worried about running enough that I’d try a test first. After the ink has been sealed you should be able to use any adhesive on top that you want… That’s my 2 cents :)

  • Doris M.

    April 19, 2016 at 10:17 AM

    You are right! Finding the RIGHT glue is daunting! THANK YOU soooooo much. You gave me the info. I needed and saved me a huge chunk of time and aggravation. Thank you “glue guru”.

  • Patrick

    April 19, 2016 at 3:49 PM

    Awesome article… Was going to tackle a decoupage project today and was wondering if gorilla glue would be an appropriate medium… I was planning on pasting cut outs from an old book printed on a thick magazine like paper to a book shelf I painted a couple months ago… Do you think this will work, or should I head to the store? Thanks

    1. Allison Murray

      April 20, 2016 at 8:06 AM

      Hi, Patrick! I’ve never used Gorilla Glue as you’ve suggested so I’d really recommend grabbing a piece of scrap wood and give it a few practice goes. Gorilla glue can be really thick and you may have to water it down to get a consistency that won’t make your pages wrinkle and get weird on you. I don’t know if watering it down will diminish the properties of the glue, though. I’d say give it a go on a practice piece and see if it can work or not. If it doesn’t grab a good old bottle of Mod Podge and get after it :)

  • Shannon

    May 3, 2016 at 11:56 PM

    I need help. I have photocards from Costco. I want to attach a piece of cardstock to the back of the photo – covering the photocard 100%. Gluesticks are not the answer – too easy to warp. I tried spray adhesive. I love the coverage (especially how the corners don’t lift), but it’s just a mess for this particular project. What’s the answer? Tacky glue? Mod Podge? Rubber Cement?

    1. Allison Murray

      May 4, 2016 at 8:37 AM

      I would definitely go with rubber cement. If anything goes over onto the photo or the cardstock that shouldn’t be there you can rub it away with your finger. Most other adhesives if you get them somewhere they shouldn’t be you’ve got a dried glob of glue there and it can look horrible. If you need it to be a very strong bond look into dry mounting. The instructions should be on the packaging.

  • AJ

    June 12, 2016 at 8:10 AM

    THANK YOU so very much for posting this!!! I am definitely in the non-craft range & was hoping there was such a thing as fabric glue … Sadly putting my “glue-total” at 4.

    1. Cinderella

      August 11, 2016 at 5:21 PM

      Hi Allison. I’m currently doing a project gluing Acrylic Gems on wine glasses. I used E6000. However the gems looked cloudy and has bubbles in it after it dries. It doesn’t look shiny anymore. :( do you have any suggestions?? Thank you in advance

      1. Allison Murray

        August 12, 2016 at 11:25 AM

        I think I would try Aleene’s Glass and Bead and see how that works. You’ll have to give it quite some time to cure, though, to keep the stones from falling off. I’d say maybe a week? And they won’t be dishwasher safe. The rhinestone to glass thing has me a bit thrown. You have to work with how smooth the glass is but you don’t want the silver backing on the gems to crack. I’m thinking this might be your best option.

  • Kathleen O’Toole

    August 19, 2016 at 8:07 AM

    I also use Hammerhead Omni-Stick glue. I have made dollhouses and miniature furniture. it grabs quickly and sticks. The only store I have been able to find it is a dollhouse store. it worked really well when I was making doll shoes.

  • Dorothy

    August 31, 2016 at 10:42 AM

    I’d like to know what glue to use for the following. I am a painter. I work with layers of paper, some quite thick and paste them on plastic allowing some of the plastic to be look through.

    1. Allison Murray

      August 31, 2016 at 1:48 PM

      I guess it depends on if it’s a decorative item or a useful item? If it’s something like a picture frame that would rarely be touched then you could go with school glue, honestly. But if it’s something that needs to be sturdier, like say, a chair, you’d want to go with something stronger. I’m having very good luck with all of the Gorilla glue line. You might check into that.

  • Paige

    September 14, 2016 at 12:00 PM

    I love your chart and all of the information – thank you! I have an old curio cabinet with a fabric (on wood) back and fabric on the wood shelves. I need to replace the fabric and have been trying to figure out what to use. I’ve spent a lot of time looking online and most sites I’ve looked at have suggested Modge Podge or other decoupage-like glue, but I don’t want the fabric saturated, stiff, or shiny – I want the fabric to still look and feel like fabric. Would you use spray adhesive for this? Thank you!

    1. Allison Murray

      September 18, 2016 at 3:16 PM

      A good, permanent spray adhesive would work really, really well. Mod Podge now has some super matte decoupage, too, you could check out. I think it’s called chalky finish?

      1. Paige

        September 25, 2016 at 6:33 PM

        Thank you!!!

  • Madelyn Oliver

    September 17, 2016 at 6:57 PM

    I am trying to glue silver dollar coins to a matte board. Tried glue gun with only mediocre luck. Can you help?

    1. Allison Murray

      September 18, 2016 at 3:14 PM

      I’d go with e6000 or Aleene’s The Ultimate. An industrial strength glue is going to work really well. Hot glue tends to do so-so on metals which is probably why you’re having some issues.

  • Sophie

    September 22, 2016 at 1:03 PM

    Thank you for this, if I wanted to glue glitter on felt and then glue that felt on foam what would I use? I tried to find a gold foam but couldn’t find the right shade. It’s for my kids costume, Wonder Woman crown and logo on chest. Thank you

    1. Allison Murray

      September 25, 2016 at 2:11 PM

      Would it be possible to just glue the glitter onto the foam and skip the felt? If so a permanent spray adhesive would do a great job for you.

  • Holly ManieOskoii

    October 17, 2016 at 11:31 PM

    This is SO helpful and you are right- the glue aisle is overwhelming. I’d love your advice for a specific glue issue I have:I am looking for a glue that can stick felt to a glass window and wash off both the felt and window.
    Suggestions? Ideas?

  • Cassy

    October 24, 2016 at 10:14 PM

    Help! I want to put a hand print made out of plaster into a shadow box. I have lined the back of box with cloth. I am unsure on what kind of glue to use. I would like it centered in the box and it will be displayed upright. Thank you!

    1. Allison Murray

      October 25, 2016 at 9:09 AM

      Because if the plaster slips and falls it’s going to break I might go with a construction grade adhesive like Liquid Nails. It’s in a caulk tube and sold in the hardware section for around $2-3 at Walmart. Use as much as you can without it being visible from the front or sides and then allow it to dry flat for a few days. I’ve done this with things that hang upright all day long and, knock on wood, haven’t had any problems, yet!

  • Donna Cushard

    October 25, 2016 at 8:25 PM

    I have a plastic floor mat like they use under office chairs that I want to put a felt fabric backing on so the plastic won’t scratch wood flooring. This is for a threshold with carpet in a bedroom leading to the hallway which is wood flooring. We have cut off the pointy parts of the mat which is where we want to glue the felt. However, we want to be sure the glue doesn’t dry hard or crusty and negate the point of putting on the felt to begin with. What adhesive would you recommend?

    1. Allison Murray

      October 28, 2016 at 11:12 AM

      I’d go with e6000. It’s super strong and cures to be kind of pliable.

  • Patty

    October 30, 2016 at 8:51 PM

    This is so helpful! Thank you for sharing what you’ve learned through your research!

  • Karen Garvin

    November 9, 2016 at 12:50 PM

    Thank you, this is a great resource!

  • Lisa

    November 14, 2016 at 1:04 PM

    Dear Allison, thanks for this article. Can you please help. I would like to put some kind of rubber cement or other product on the inside of my work out leggings to form one of those rubbery, sticky strips to stop them from falling down.

    I had one pair of pants that had it on the inside of only the bottom of the pants to stop them from rolling upwards or shifting and got the idea to put them higher up on the inside of all my workout pants to stop the shifting. What adhesive would you recommend that would be safe to stick to the fabric then dry and have against my skin? individual allergies not withstanding.

    thank you!

    1. Allison Murray

      November 14, 2016 at 2:41 PM

      Hmm. Rubber cement is going to come off in the wash as will most things I could think of. Have you considered trying puffy paint? The slick kind, by it’s nature, kind of sticks to things. I’ve used it as a rubber bottom for chair pads to keep them in place with great success. Thoughts?

    2. Becky

      June 3, 2017 at 4:54 PM

      I use the brush on rubber backing for rugs, washes well and I can brush it on how ever wide or thick I need

  • Meaghan Nelson

    November 22, 2016 at 6:57 AM

    Excellent article, thank you! I have a situation that I hope you can help with… I am making a picture for a friend’s new baby using small buttons layered on canvas. Any thoughts on what I might use after gluing as added insurance that the buttons stay on? Obviously I wouldn’t want the baby to get her hands on a rogue button …wondering insurance can spray something to coat it? Any suggestions welcomed and andppreciated. Thanks!

    1. Allison Murray

      November 22, 2016 at 9:12 AM

      The only thing that I can really think that would hold buttons in would be acrylic resin. A spray will just coat but not necessarily add any more security. If you use a really good industrial strength glue I doubt they would fall off but it might be advisable to suggest the piece isn’t hung directly over the crib or someplace baby could get a fallen button, just in case.

  • Sara

    November 26, 2016 at 12:07 PM

    Hi there,

    Thanks for the post. I’m trying to find a glue that will stick felt to card stock. For Christmas ornaments, so important that it doesn’t lift on corners etc and will last.


    1. Allison Murray

      November 27, 2016 at 9:50 PM

      I’d go with hot glue or e6000. I think both would work really well for you.

      1. Antionette

        September 17, 2020 at 1:07 AM

        What kind of glue can be used for permanent ponding, dries clear, when gluing hair extensions to lace.

        1. Allison Murray

          September 19, 2020 at 4:08 PM

          I think this might be a better question for a hair stylist. I know hair extensions aren’t cheap and I’d hate for you to ruin something!

  • Angela

    November 30, 2016 at 8:38 AM

    I’d like to print out labels from regular computer paper and adhere it to the outside of Ball or Mason jars. Wondering if you knew of what ‘glue type’ to use that is waterproof, but dries clear. Modge Podge is nice, but isn’t waterproof.

    1. Allison Murray

      November 30, 2016 at 2:29 PM

      There is a dishwasher safe Mod Podge formula. I’ve used it with much success, although hand-washing is always a better idea for longevity of the item.

  • Jenny

    December 2, 2016 at 8:59 AM

    What kind of glue is best when putting together, wrapped chocolate bars, to make a Christmas gift?

    1. Allison Murray

      December 2, 2016 at 9:09 AM

      I would think hot glue would work really well.

  • Laura

    December 9, 2016 at 6:35 AM

    I have a wonderfully soft Thomas Nelson Signature Series bible, but the painted coating on the inside cover is flaking off. I would like to apply a layer of fabric over it to prevent it from happening, however I want to keep the flexibility of the cover. An suggestions?

    1. Allison Murray

      December 12, 2016 at 1:10 PM

      I’d go with spray adhesive like Tacky Spray by Aleene’s. Be sure to tape off and mask every place you do not want the adhesive to go because it’s a messy job, but I think it will work the best for you.

  • Lisa

    December 10, 2016 at 10:17 PM

    Hi Allison, thank you for sharing! I am making a shadow box and have to glue paper to fabric, burlap to paper, and a sand dollar to burlap. Any suggestions? I tried the E6000 spray adhesive and it didn’t work at all (but maybe I didn’t use it correctly). Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks :)

    1. Allison Murray

      December 12, 2016 at 1:05 PM

      The Tacky Spray (not the repositionable version) is AMAZING for permanent hold on paper to fabric. For the sand dollar to burlap I might go with an industrial strength glue like e6000, but I’d probably go with hot glue for the ease of it and lack of cure time. Good luck!

  • JD

    December 12, 2016 at 8:31 AM

    I recently purchased some acrylic art. It’s like a painting only acrylic and no frame. The hanging mechanism is a large square approximately 18″ square (think of a plain picture frame that is glued to the back). They came pre-glued, but during shipping they have come completely come off. I called the art gallery and they immediately shipping me another set or art, but the same thing has happened. I don’t know if it’s bad glue they are using or rough shipping. They were not skimpy on the original glue using a tight zig-zag pattern around the entire back of the square piece. Even though the square has come off, all of the glue remains on the square part. There is no glue whatsoever on the back of the art which makes me wonder if they are using the correct glue. Anyway… will super glue, gorilla glue, or maybe in gorilla epoxy work?


    1. Allison Murray

      December 12, 2016 at 1:03 PM

      Dude, that stinks! It sounds like something is definitely not working on their end! I’ve always had lots of luck with super glue, especially the Gorilla brand with the brush, for metal to acrylic pieces. I’d give that a try, allow a decent amount of time for the glue to fully cure (maybe 24 hours) before putting the weight of the piece on the hanger, to be safe.

      1. JD Lippard

        December 13, 2016 at 6:07 AM

        Thank you so much. I will give that a try. Have a great day and a Merry Christmas.


  • Anne Pass

    December 12, 2016 at 9:32 AM

    Great information but as an incompetent crafter I still need help! What can I use to adhere either a felt or leather disc to the bottom lip of a round glass paperweight (like a “snow globe”)? Thank you !

    1. Allison Murray

      December 12, 2016 at 2:06 PM

      I tend to suggest a lot of e6000, but that’s just because it works really well. I’d think it would be the best in this situation, also.

  • Mary Day

    January 15, 2017 at 1:35 PM

    Thank you!! This chart is extremely helpful.

  • Christine

    January 27, 2017 at 8:09 AM

    I was just wondering if the “non-toxic” category meant at all, or once dried? I have something I need to make that will require attaching stone, glass, leather, etc. to wood, but I need it to be non-toxic once dried. I am okay with having to protect myself while crafting, but don’t want anyone beyond that to worry about it. I kind of need it to be child safe. I have been looking at the Gorilla Epoxy, but worry that it will dry too quickly for my needs.

    1. Allison Murray

      January 27, 2017 at 9:15 AM

      Hey! The ones on the chart that say non-toxic are ones indicated by the brands that they are non-toxic straight out of the bottle or tube. There are many adhesives that are toxic when handling but dry to a non-toxic state. I visited the Gorilla website to be sure, but the Gorilla Epoxy is non-toxic but only after it has cured. Also it has a 5 minute setting time which means you’ve got a good deal of time to get things positioned just right!

      info sourced from:

  • Wanja Ochwada

    January 31, 2017 at 12:26 PM

    Hi! Such a great article – I love the detail you go into, it’s been helpful. But I need a little advice: I want to glitter-ize (is that a word?!) my Vans slip ons, but I’m unsure which glue to use with my glitter powder to create a durable glitter coat on my shoes. I walk around in the rain a lot and I’m worried the Mod Podge fabric might not be durable enough, could/should I use something like E-6000 or Aleene’s Super Fabric adhesive? Thanks

    1. Allison Murray

      January 31, 2017 at 12:33 PM

      Ooh! Aleene’s actually has a glue that is machine washable and made for GLITTER! Get it here (affiliate link)

      1. Wanja Ochwada

        February 1, 2017 at 2:47 PM


  • Drew

    February 6, 2017 at 1:32 AM

    This article answered a bunch of questions I had about glues (and some I didn’t know I had), but now I have one question that I need advice on. I have several pairs of khaki pants that is getting threadbare and worn through in the thigh area and, since I have no sewing skill, I usually default to sewing glue. I’ve usually just used a simple sewing glue by singer and attach a ‘patch’ cut out from an old pair of pants onto the worn area (using a single whole 1 oz bottle for both thigh areas of the pants). But after a while, I find the patch starts to come off and eventually falls off. What would you recommend for this? I was thinking between another brand of sewing glue (or even double the amount of the current one?), the hot glue, or even that E-6000 glue. I should probably note these are work pants so I’m trying to shoot for durability and longevity as a priority.

    1. Allison Murray

      February 6, 2017 at 8:16 AM

      (affiliate) Aleene’s Super Fabric is like E-6000 for fabric – super crazy strong. It smells and has horrible fumes so use it in a well ventilated area, but I’ve washed things dozens of times with this glue and I think it’s pretty amazing. Be sure to allow enough time for the glue to fully dry or cure before you try to wash it and you should be set.

      1. Drew

        February 6, 2017 at 7:46 PM

        Bought the stuff and used it. Man you weren’t joking about it being crazy strong. Fumes too. Thanks for the heads up. But it did the trick nicely. It’s obviously waaaay stronger than anything I’ve used before. Never would have known about it had you not told me about it. Thank you! ^_^

  • Laura

    February 6, 2017 at 2:26 PM

    Hi Allison
    Love the article and all the details but I didn’t see my need in your list.
    I am doing a craft where I need to attach seashells, starfish and sand dollars to burlap.
    I cannot use a stitch to attach, what type of glue would hold these in place but not leave
    a stain (wet look spot) on the burlap?
    Thank you so much.

    1. Allison Murray

      February 7, 2017 at 9:16 AM

      My guess is your best bet would be good ol’ hot glue. If you have enough for a test give that a go. If your burlap has big gaps in the fabric from it being a looser weave be sure to put something behind it to protect your work surface (like a silicone mat would be fab) and definitely watch out for your fingers!!!

  • Kate

    March 3, 2017 at 9:38 PM

    Hi Allison,

    Is there anything out there that will stiffen yarn in order for it to hold its shape? It making Easter baskets in the shape of eggs. I tried modgepodge stiffer (multiple coats) and starch with no success.



    1. Allison Murray

      March 5, 2017 at 1:42 PM

      This sounds like an exciting project and it’s one that I’d love to do myself (and just might!). I found in my notes where I saw a DIY lampshade project that I think I found in a craft book from the 50’s or 60’s. They didn’t use yarn, though, they used string more like the kind you’d use for crochet and secured it with a sugar bath. The sugar bath is 1 part water to 2 parts sugar. Warm water will allow the sugar to completely dissolve and dip your string item in it and allow it to dry 2-3 times for a really solid hold. Let me know if you give it a try!

  • Sonny

    March 6, 2017 at 10:44 AM

    Hi Allison,

    I’m creating a shadow box frame and would like to know what is the best adhesive to use in gluing plaster (POP) hand cast into mat boards. Would Elmer’s Glue be enough or should I use liquid nails instead? What would last longer?



    1. Allison Murray

      March 6, 2017 at 4:37 PM

      If you’re using wood I’d definitely go with a good wood glue. I like Aleene’s and Elmer’s the best.

  • Alicia

    March 12, 2017 at 3:45 PM

    This is a great list that answered a lot of questions. Would like your opinion on my project. I’m currently making mouse ears for my Disney trip and need to attach “things” to the fabric ears. Mainly gemstones and plastic embellishments. What would be easiest to use that would dry clear?

    1. Allison Murray

      March 13, 2017 at 8:40 AM

      If you’re using plastic rhinestones (which is how I’d go) clear Tacky Glue would most likely serve you best. If your rhinestones are a bit better quality you can use e6000 or Aleene’s The Ultimate. If they have a plastic back, though, the stronger glues will crack the metallic business on the back and you can see it through the stones. It’s not pretty.

  • Anita Loganbill

    March 22, 2017 at 3:09 AM

    Loved your article, need to glue rubber to canvas my all-stars are coming apart where the rubber attaches to the canvas.needs to be water resistant or proof ,nontoxic and prefer not too stinky.What would you suggest? Keep in mind these are going on my sometimes bare feet?

    1. Allison Murray

      March 22, 2017 at 8:32 AM

      Hey, Anita! I’ve recently found some sole glue after researching it for myself. I’ve used lots and lots of glues to put my worn shoes back together and sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t. I can even use the same glue twice with totally different results. Not sure why but, you know… At any rate, I have not yet tried Boot Fix Sole Glue but the reviews are great and I’ve got some saved in my Amazon cart for the next time I need it. If you check it out let me know how it works for you? (affiliate) There’s also Shoe Goo. I’ve used this in the past and if I remember correctly it worked really well (and it’s cheaper than the Boot Fix). I do recall it didn’t last very long because in the next year or so I tried to use it and it was kind of weird and didn’t work so well. (affiliate)

  • Heidi

    March 26, 2017 at 8:48 PM

    Thanks for your thorough post! They should have it up in craft stores! I have a glue question for you.

    I need to glue somewhat heavy things like beans or jelly beans to completely cover a styrofoam cylinder. I would like the glue to dry clear or almost clear (not yellow), be easy to apply (don’t want to use glue gun because of burns and stringiness), and non-toxic (need to do this indoors near kids not out in garage). I’ve been told the Elmer’s school blues are too watery to hold these heavy things. What do you recommend? Thanks!

    1. Allison Murray

      March 27, 2017 at 8:25 AM

      My initial would be the hot glue but since that is out I don’t know of anything I have in my stash that would work well enough. But I’ve done a bit of research online through adhesive company’s websites and the like and I think that Weldbond might work out really well for you. It’s non-toxic and is supposed to be quite strong. For jelly beans you could always try toothpicks but I don’t know if your project will be just hanging around on the table (which would be okay with the picks) or handled (in which case they might fall off fairly easily… Let me know what you try and how it works for you!

  • Jenny

    April 9, 2017 at 1:40 AM

    Hi!! Your article is amazing!!! I am trying to glitter dip some plastic travel style coffee cups I have. They have a glossy finish . I have tried sanding them- then dishwasher mod podge (peeled right off); e-6000 spray adhesive (peeled off again, took longer this time though). I’m wondering what you recommend? I just also read to use a plastic primer before. Do you think I should do that then use regular e-6000? Thank you in advance!!!

    1. Allison Murray

      April 9, 2017 at 9:36 AM

      Hmm. This is going to be a tricky one. Roughing up the surface will definitely be very helpful. Have you considered using paint as the base instead of glue? Maybe a glitter paint that you can sprinkle the glitter on top of so that it dries onto the surface of the paint and has some glitz behind to help cover empty spots. Let me know if you give this a go. I’m curious as to how to make this one work!

  • Coyote

    June 1, 2017 at 7:53 PM

    Thought I left a comment the other day, but apparently it didn’t work.

    Me and my daughter are working on a couple tails (a snake and a mermaid), and were thinking of using vinyl for the scales, attaching them by some adhesive to a spandex base. The link you give suggests a pray adhesive, but I don’t think that would work for us in needed to add individual scales, so little pieces, one by one. What would you recommend?

    1. Allison Murray

      June 2, 2017 at 3:18 PM

      Hi, Coyote! Quick question, does the Spandex need to stretch? I’m not quite envisioning what you’re making so I’m not sure, but any adhesive is going to keep the Spandex from stretching or, even worse, will break up once the fabric does stretch and make a huge mess. I hope this helps, but let me know if I’m barking up the wrong tree?

      1. Coyote

        June 4, 2017 at 12:55 AM

        We had been thinking that we needed it to stretch (for getting in and out purposes), but thinking about it, I can see where that could become a problem. We may have to rethink our bases.
        Thanks for the reply. :)

  • Lisa Hernandez

    June 6, 2017 at 11:12 AM

    Your article is great!! I am trying to apply seashells to wood using a glue gun. What would be best?

    1. Allison Murray

      June 7, 2017 at 9:02 PM

      I’d go with your favorite formula of Tacky Glue! My favorite is quick grab for interesting shapes because it holds things you set in it really well!

  • Lisa E

    June 7, 2017 at 7:26 AM

    Great article! Forgive me if this has already been asked but there are too many Q&As to go through. I never realized there were so many glues either! I am making something for my friend’s new granddaughter. The Mom wants a headband holder which consists of a piece of wood with clothespins adhered to it in a row. In the picture she sent me, the board was stained, however she requested a painted one. Now that I’ve painted the board, how do I adhere the clothespins to it? From what I have read the fact that there is now paint is an issue, especially when this item will be used and not just displayed. Help!

    1. Allison Murray

      June 7, 2017 at 9:00 PM

      Hey, Lisa! You’re so sweet to make this for your friend’s granddaughter :) Since the board is painted I would totally see about tacking the pins on with really small nails, like trim nails. They’ve got tiny heads that sink into wood and they can be filled and painted over to cover (if your pins are painted, too) otherwise they are super small and would’t be too noticeable. If you really want to do glue on the painted surface I’d try wood glue if you have latex paint, but if it’s oil I can’t think of anything that would weather the use.

      1. Lisa E

        July 5, 2017 at 6:13 PM

        Thank you. I ended up using a nail gun with small nails.

  • Esther

    June 29, 2017 at 11:37 PM

    Super helpful, thanks!

  • Anissa Stokes

    October 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM

    My granddaughter and I are doing a school project story book pumpkins. We are doing the Tin Man . Well, I have used the hot glue gun and gorilla super glue to try and get the nose (plastic oil funnel) to stick to this pumpkin but it does not stay it falls off. Could you please tell me what type of glue works for gluing to a pumpkin.

    1. Allison Murray

      October 28, 2017 at 1:04 PM

      I would try an industrial strength glue like e6000. You can easily get it at the craft store or even the craft section in Walmart. It will take some time to dry so you’ll need to use tape or something to keep the funnel in place until it sets.

  • Kat

    November 5, 2017 at 1:59 AM

    Hi. Hoping you can help. Im making felt dolls for my niece with different outfits also made from felt. Im looking for something I can use on the backs of the clothes so she can place them on the dolls and remove and still reuse again. Didnt really want to use velcro so was looking for an alternative. Thanks

    1. Allison Murray

      November 5, 2017 at 1:20 PM

      Honestly any kind of adhesive is going to lose its sticky over time because it will attract pet hair and dust, etc. I think that the best option to go is the Velcro route. The only other possibility I can think of is maybe brooch pins but that might not be kid friendly enough…

  • Kristi Stephenson

    November 6, 2017 at 6:56 AM

    I’m making a Roman shade out of a vinyl mini blind. Could you please suggest the best glue to use to attach the fabric to the vinyl blind? Several videos have suggested Mid Podge and fabric glue—I didn’t feel these would be strong enough.

    1. Allison Murray

      November 7, 2017 at 2:14 PM

      I have to agree. I don’t know how well those would hold up to the blind actually being used. You know what might work really well? Clear silicone caulk. If you brushed a thin amount on the vinyl and then smoothed the fabric onto it I bet it would work super well. Think about it, you use caulk around doors and windows an it stands the heat and cold so it would be great for blinds, too, right?

      1. Yinka Adegbenle

        December 7, 2017 at 9:45 PM

        That’s a fantastic idea!!!! thank you. just the answer I needed.

  • Lisa

    November 26, 2017 at 9:33 AM

    Help Please!!
    I am working on a project that one part of the velcro is sticking to wood and the other half will be sticking to a cookie sheet.
    I am having difficulty with both sides. The velcro strip is about 6 inches long. I need to use velcro to be able to remove and replace. What glue/s can I use so that the velcro will stay in place. I am perfectly okay if you tell me it is two different types of glue. I just need this to work. Thanks so much for your help!

    1. Allison Murray

      November 27, 2017 at 9:00 AM

      As far as I can think, you have 2 options. I’d probably first try e6000. It will stick just about anything to anything else. You can also get a little pot of contact cement from the hardware store. I keep a little 3 ounce bottle of DAP around just like this. You put some on the metal and some on the Velcro back and let them dry and stick them together and it’s there pretty much forever. Seriously, like you put it on wrong and you probably can’t get it back off cleanly again. There’s more wiggle room with the e6000 BUT it might not work quite as well..

  • Suzanna

    November 28, 2017 at 7:58 AM

    Thanks for taking the time to help all of us crafters out. I have a question about what glue to use with kid crafters. I’m doing a craft table at a school event and need a glue that dries fairly quickly but isn’t unsafe (hot glue gun or super glue) for kids to use by themselves. Aleene’s Tacky glue or Elmer’s craft glue? Or is there something better? I’ll be working with 4-11 year olds glueing pom poms onto pine cones to make Christmas trees. Thanks so much for your help!!

    1. Allison Murray

      November 28, 2017 at 10:32 AM

      I would totally go with Aleene’s Quick Dry Tacky Glue. It’s non-toxic, and just like the name says dries FAST!

  • Heidi

    November 29, 2017 at 4:15 PM

    Your site is great. Thank you so much. I started making Christmas wreaths out of vintage glass ornaments, using a hot glue gun. When I pulled mine out of my attic this afternoon, half the ornaments fell off. I assume it was from extreme NJ heat and/or cold. I have nine others that will, more than likely, need repair. Do you suggest Aleene’s? I read this on another blog: ALEENE’S ORIGINAL TACKY GLUE: This glue has been a staple in my craft cupboard for years. It is extremely versatile and it dries clear. It can be used on all different kinds of papers, metal, glass, ceramics and most plastics. It also maintains it’s holding power in all different types of climates. This glue, however, is not waterproof, so don’t use it on anything that needs to be washed. Thanks so much for your help.

    1. Allison Murray

      November 29, 2017 at 8:50 PM

      I do agree! Tacky Glue has been around for ever and ever because it really, really works!

      1. Heidi

        November 30, 2017 at 7:53 AM

        Thank you, Allison! If using Tacky Glue for my new wreaths, do you think I can continue to store in my attic without the wreaths falling apart?

  • Nelly

    December 10, 2017 at 8:39 PM

    I’m going to mount large, heavy vintage locks (4-5 inch length) into a shadowbox that has a foam board with canvas lining. I’m trying to decide if I can safely/securely mount then with just glue (they each weigh probably about 1 pound) or if I need to use a wire or something and put into through the foam board all the way to the hard back board of the shadowbox.

    You think e6000 is enough? Is there anything even stronger that can be used with these materials? You think just using an adhesive is not enough given the weight of the objects?


    1. Allison Murray

      December 11, 2017 at 10:19 AM

      I would definitely add support with wire. That’s a big difference in weight and strength of your backing so I’d strongly recommend NOT going glue only. Best of luck!

  • Gilbert A.

    December 15, 2017 at 9:28 PM

    Question, can anyone tell me which glue I can use? I’m trying to form burlap over a styrofoam face. I want the burlap to dry hard as a rock (glue to dry clear) and doesn’t stick to the styrofoam.
    Thank you in advance,
    Gilbert A.

    1. Gilbert A.

      December 15, 2017 at 9:35 PM

      Oh, I almost forgot, thank you Allison for the glue chart, it is very helpful. I will make a copy and keep it on my wall.
      Thanks for sharing,

    2. Allison Murray

      December 16, 2017 at 9:23 AM

      Hey, Gilbert – it sounds like what you need is a fabric stiffener. I’ve used both Stiffy by Plaid and Aleene’s Fabric Stiffener and Draping Liquid. What this does is stiffen the fabric so that it can stand on its own and is commonly used for things like turning a cheesecloth into ghost, as an example. I don’t know that you can necessarily get “rock hard” but you could play with the amount of stiffener you use to get results for what you need. It’s been a while since I’ve used either, but if I remember correctly I got more firm results with the Aleene’s than the Plaid, if you want to try that one first.

      1. Gilbert Alonzo

        January 11, 2018 at 10:17 AM

        Hi Allison,
        My apologies, I thought I had replied, thank you so much for your advice, the Aleene’s worked out great!
        Thanks again,

  • Sarah

    January 2, 2018 at 2:28 PM

    Hi! I am in need of a glue to repair a ceramic coffee mug. It needs to be food safe, dry clear, permanent (hopefully dishwasher safe) and have a fairly quick adhesion time. Is there such a product?! Thanks.

    1. Allison Murray

      January 3, 2018 at 10:18 AM

      Honestly I’m going to go with no. I’ve used e6000 to glue a wax warmer back together and it has amazingly stayed together over the years but it was the only glue I could get to work on ceramic like that but is not food safe. I am sorry!

      1. Sarah

        January 3, 2018 at 10:12 PM

        Dang! Well, thank you for the quick response, I really appreciate that! Take care.

  • Heather

    January 29, 2018 at 10:53 PM

    Should I use spray adhesive or mod podge to put vinyl on canvas?

    1. Allison Murray

      February 4, 2018 at 10:18 AM

      I’d go with the spray adhesive!

  • Maryann

    January 31, 2018 at 11:59 AM

    What would you use to glue down skittles on a thick paper board?

    1. Allison Murray

      March 7, 2018 at 2:55 PM

      I think I’d go with Elmer’s Glue if it’s not meant to last too long. If you’re going to try and seal and keep it, I might go with e6000.

  • Diane

    February 4, 2018 at 1:22 PM

    This was absolutely awesome. I noticed glues have changed over the years. I was doing a craft project – gluing different items and textures on a pretty box for wedding cards. Reading the back of the glue bottles arent very informative. I suppose they dont want to get blamed since there are so many variables. Can’t blame them. I came across your research here and it was most helpful & informative. You should sell this. That was a lot of work. Thank you!

    1. Allison Murray

      March 7, 2018 at 2:56 PM

      I’m so glad my guide was helpful! And I totally think companies are really worried about liability which I can understand. But knowing what a glue will work on should definitely be on the bottles. Since they’re not down with that I’ll test ’em out and write it all down :) Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment!

  • Jules

    March 7, 2018 at 12:01 PM

    THANK YOU for putting all of this work into deciphering glues. You just saved me a ton of time on my project.

    1. Allison Murray

      March 7, 2018 at 2:42 PM

      You are so welcome :)

  • Melanie

    March 8, 2018 at 9:02 AM

    Do you know what I can glue a silicone embellishment to a plastic item with? E-6000, no. Gorilla hot glue, no, not even after sanding the back side. I have 45 save the dates to make and need any help I can get. I need to finish within a week.

    I should add, these are more of a tiny favor being handed out to children to help give parents an incentive to rsvp, so the glue should be something that doesn’t resonate with fumes. I’m happy E-6000 did not work, for that reason as every time I use it I see the label that refers to an ingredient in the glue is a known cancer causing agent. ?

    Any advise if greatly appreciated.

    1. Allison Murray

      March 8, 2018 at 9:26 AM

      Well I think I have just the ticket for your fix but you’re not gonna like it because it does have fumes… Here lately my go to adhesive for things that really don’t want to stick together is 100% clear silicone and it sounds like it would be the perfect match for your project BUT it’s got some super nasty fumes when you use it. I truly cannot think of another adhesive that is going to work gluing silicone to smooth plastic. If you decide to try it out you can get a small-ish tube of silicone in the adhesives section of a hardware store or in the hardware section at a store like Walmart. I can only find it in a freaking 12 pack online, but you can see a photo of it here so you know what you’re looking for at the store:

  • Tim

    October 13, 2018 at 12:52 AM

    Hi, great site! Now for my question ;-) Which Tacky glue actually stays tacky (for at least 5 to 10 minutes) ?
    (Obviously the Quick-Dry is out… ;-) I’m getting into flocking figurines, and need something (water-based and dries clear, preferably) that won’t dry out while painting the glue in all the areas where the flock is to go.

    Thanks for your time and help!

    1. Allison Murray

      October 14, 2018 at 2:50 PM

      In all honesty, I’d probably give regular old Tacky Glue a go. If spread on a little thickly, it does seem to have a longer dry time. Let us know if you give it a go and it works for you?

  • Sandy

    December 3, 2018 at 3:34 PM

    Thank you for all your hard work putting this together. I actually found you by looking for a clear, non-yellowing glue. I have a delicate, see-through glass figurine that broke. What would you recommend to glue it back together that won’t yellow over time.

    1. Allison Murray

      December 3, 2018 at 3:41 PM

      Hi, Sandy! My go to for a project like this would typically be e6000 but since you’re concerned about yellowing I’d suggest using its sister product, a UV resistant super strong glue called e6800. I’ve not had the opportunity to use e6800 myself, but I think that it’s the best option for your current predicament and I’ve had nothing but great success with the brand behind both products.

  • Barbara Mizzi

    February 17, 2019 at 7:40 PM

    I love all your glue related questions and answers and the chart that you made. I am wondering what kind of glue would be best for applying burlap onto canvas? Thanks!

    1. Allison Murray

      February 20, 2019 at 5:48 PM

      Burlap has a loose weave and glue will go right through it and dry on the other side and look awful. The only glue I’ve been super happy with is spray adhesive. Spray it onto the canvas and then smooth the burlap on and you shouldn’t get any glue peeking through!

  • Nisi

    February 18, 2019 at 5:21 AM

    Hello, there is great information here.
    I don’t know if anyone has inquired but what do you recommend for precise application of glue?
    I’ve heard of using needles, any thoughts?

    1. Allison Murray

      February 20, 2019 at 5:48 PM

      I have used needles for very precise glue application. If your area is a bit bigger, I’ve also used toothpicks or wooden skewers. But you’re not going to get much more precise than a needle!

  • Johanna

    May 13, 2019 at 5:50 PM

    Thank you so much for your chart and all the work you put into it, Allison! It ‘s very hard to get any information about the different glues, especially from someone who has actually tried them all. I’m making a new book with my old sketch book. I’m trying to add a folder to the inside back cover, which is like a sturdy hard bound book. I’m not sure how strong the glue needs to be. I had to cut the folder a bit to fit the book, so I used Aleene’s Original Tacky glue to put the pockets back together. They seem sturdy, but I won’t know until they are in the book. What’s the best glue to use to adhere the folder? Thanks!

    1. Allison Murray

      May 18, 2019 at 1:22 PM

      I’d go with a good quality spray adhesive or rubber cement. If you use rubber cement and apply to both items and then stick them together once dry, that folder will go absolutely nowhere. If it’s a very fiddly thing to stick together the fact that it goes nowhere can be problematic because there’s no wiggle room with rubber cement. Once you put it on, it’s on regardless of whether or not you got the placement right. In that case, I’d recommend a spray adhesive just to the back side of the folder. It should last a good long time and will be a little less fiddly just not quite as strongly bonded.

  • Johanna

    May 22, 2019 at 9:42 PM

    Thank you so much, Allison! I went the spray adhesive route. It’s only been a couple of hours, but it looks like it’s going to be really strong. I appreciate your help. :)

  • Darla Mittendorf

    August 27, 2019 at 7:52 PM

    Thank you so much for all the great information on types of glue! I found it very helpful! I have an odd problem though and could really use some extra help. I have been looking for a fabric glue that dries clear but NOT shiny. The problem is that my partially disabled rescue cat snuck into our bedroom and made a failed attempt to jump on our bed. She instinctively dug her claws into our 40 year-old white quilt with intricate cross-stitch designs to pull herself up onto the bed. She made two small slits in the fabric. I have Fray Check, but was wondering if applying a thin layer of an appropriate glue would hold up better when washed. Any suggestions?

    1. Allison Murray

      August 28, 2019 at 9:04 AM

      Oh, no! That stinks! But I really think that glue is a bad idea here. If you can’t stitch the cuts closed yourself I’d really suggest taking it to a seamstress or a dry cleaner that makes alterations who can.

  • Debbie Burke

    November 19, 2019 at 11:01 AM

    Hi Allison-

    Need help quick!! My first craft show is this Saturday, 11/23. I make Easter egg ornaments with blown out shells. The are done with a high gloss spray and I’m gluing on metal findings from a Pysanky egg company. I was attaching them to the egg using Alene’s clear tacky glue. (Which I thought was a good choice.)

    Here’s the thing. The metal pieces are fairly concave on the bottom, and there isn’t a lot of surface touching the egg, sometimes just the outer edge. Last night I was dabbing some glue on the knots in the strings, and the metal findings started popping off with very little tension on them. This, as you can imagine, is going to create a disaster.

    So this might not only be a question of finding the right glue, but of finding a way to increase the point of contact. I tried filling the concave area completely with glue, but it not only squishes out the sides, the hardware slides right off the egg. Also wondering if the high gloss finish is preventing adhesion. Thought of an emery board to rough it up, but sanding just the right spot is hard, and it can ruin the design.

    There really is no way to make money at this, is there?😁

    1. Allison Murray

      November 19, 2019 at 5:40 PM

      Oh my goodness, what a pickle! I think that what I would do is try a strong industrial strength glue. e6000 works gluing so much and it works really well for metal. I’m thinking with industrial-strength you won’t need to change anything because I’ve used it on slick metal with no problem. I think that before gluing the pieces on, I’d fill the concave part with the glue and let it cure overnight. Unless it’s something you could maybe pour something like resin into to set up and smooth it out? That might be a good option, too. If you fill that in you should have better contact and then go with that super strong glue and I think you’ll be set. Thoughts?

  • Tiffany

    December 18, 2019 at 1:17 PM

    Hello Allison,
    I hope you can help me! I am trying to make my own ugly holiday sweater for a party in a couple of days. I am hoping to use this sweater in the future and would like it to be washable. The sweater is made of 100% Cotton (it’s more like a turtleneck, but I am making it a sweater!). I got some little felt craft kits of Santa, trees, etc. from Michaels and put them together. Some parts already had adhesive backs and you just peel and stick, but other parts (little jewels, googly eyes, pom poms, and other fabric) did not so I tried using Aleene’s super fabric glue to apply them. It did not stick at all and made such a mess! I am trying to get those pieces together and then AFTER use glue to adhere them to the Cotton shirt. So it will be felt onto Cotton and then pom poms onto the Cotton, if possible too. Any suggestions for another glue to use? I don’t really want to use the super fabric again as it stinks, makes a mess, and did little.

    Here are the kits for reference:

    Thanks so much in advance!

    1. Allison Murray

      December 19, 2019 at 6:49 PM

      I’m thinking your best bet will be hot glue. Have you tried that yet?

  • Molly Gordon

    September 13, 2020 at 5:37 PM

    Hello! Thank you for your thorough review of the different glues on the market. I am creating two HUGE backdrops for a wedding, and we are harvesting LARGE leaves, applying hair spray to preserve them, then spray painting them. I intend to glue them to a backing of some sort to create a beautiful 3-tone autumn look of cascading leaves. The leaves are natural, and I’m thinking of using fabric as the backing. Do you have a recommendation for the glue? I’d also love your recommendation on the backing if you have one. Thank you so much!

    1. Allison Murray

      September 14, 2020 at 3:02 PM

      Hi, Molly! I would think that a good old fashioned glue gun would work really well for natural leaves. My first thought of fabric is something with some texture. Maybe a fine weave burlap? With the fibers that sort of fuzz out you’ll have lots of hold to the fabric. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen multiple colors at Hobby Lobby. Give me a shout if you have any more questions and best of luck with your backdrop!

  • Amber

    November 23, 2020 at 10:29 PM

    What glue would be best for outdoor use on fabric ribbon to keep the ends from fraying?

    1. Allison Murray

      November 24, 2020 at 12:00 PM

      Fray Check (aff) is made just to keep things like this from fraying. It’s washable and dry cleanable, so I would think it would do very well outdoors! You can get a bottle from Walmart for less than $3.

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